Award-worthy looks from emerging designers
In an industry where visibility equals value, emerging designers are increasingly leveraging high-profile celebrity events to propel their brands into the mainstream. Once dominated by heritage maisons, red carpets at Cannes, the Oscars, the Met Gala, the Grammys, and beyond now showcase a growing number of independent and avant-garde designers—reflecting both a shift in fashion’s power structure and evolving consumer preferences.
From Runway to Red Carpet: A Strategic Shift
Traditionally, fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London, and New York served as launchpads for new talent, with the role of institutions such as fashion councils and associations being fundamental. However, in recent years, younger designers have turned to celebrity placements as a more direct and impactful strategy. Unlike runway shows—where visibility is often limited to industry insiders and niche audiences—a celebrity endorsement at a major event can generate instant global exposure, amplified by social media and online publications.
Take, for example, Harris Reed, who rose to prominence dressing Harry Styles and Iman for the Met Gala. His gender-fluid designs, often crafted from upcycled materials, challenge conventional norms and resonate deeply with Gen Z consumers. He has since been appointed Creative Director of Nina Ricci.
Closer to home, European music festivals like Sanremo and Eurovision are proving to be valuable platforms for independent designers. The Sanremo Music Festival—Italy’s most-watched television event—is increasingly functioning as a national runway, with both Italian and international designers dressing major performers. In 2024, we saw BigMama in Francesco Seghezzi, Clara in Andrea Adamo, Ricchi e Poveri in Vivetta and KrisJoy, and La BabelNova Orchestra wearing Mordecai by Ludovico Bruno during their duet with Dargen D’Amico. In 2025, Rose Villain appeared in a custom look by Juun.J. Meanwhile, young talents like Francesco Murano—who previously dressed Beyoncé for her Black Is King project—have gained recognition by outfitting artists such as Elodie with his dramatic, sculptural silhouettes.
Similarly, Eurovision has evolved into a full-blown fashion spectacle, where costume designers and stylists collaborate to create bold, theatrical, and often avant-garde looks. In 2024, Swedish brand Hodakova—renowned for transforming everyday objects like belts and ties into conceptual garments—dressed several backstage hosts and dancers, amplifying the brand’s edgy, post-industrial aesthetic. Hodakova has also gained international visibility by dressing stars such as Cate Blanchett, reinforcing its status as a red carpet favorite. Dutch designer Duran Lantink, known for dressing Billie Eilish and Lizzo, was recently appointed Creative Director at Jean Paul Gaultier.
The Decline of Traditional Luxury Among Younger Generations
This phenomenon isn’t just about strategic brand placement—it’s part of a larger cultural shift. Younger consumers, especially Gen Z and Millennials, are turning away from the exclusivity of traditional luxury brands in favor of individuality and meaning. The appeal of vintage, upcycled, and independent labels lies in their perceived authenticity and rarity—qualities that mass-produced luxury can no longer guarantee.
A study by Bain & Company highlights that Gen Z is twice as likely as previous generations to prioritize uniqueness over brand recognition.
Social media has only accelerated this transformation. Well-curated fashion contests and support systems for emerging designers during Milan and Paris fashion weeks are essential. But equally critical is the role of the stylist in giving visibility to these brands during highly publicized moments. Celebrity-worn outfits are instantly disseminated via Instagram, TikTok, and digital fashion platforms, generating viral buzz that drives both engagement and sales.
Brands like Nensi Dojaka are a case in point. Her sheer, asymmetrical dresses first gained attention through London’s Fashion East platform. She later won the prestigious LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2021 and has since become a fixture at London Fashion Week, even collaborating with Calvin Klein in 2024.
What This Means for the Future of Fashion Marketing
Today, there are many different channels and occasions for launching and giving visibility to a collection. Sometimes, collections are conceived specifically for these events. A perfect example is the stunning Gucci Notte capsule by Sabato De Sarno, unveiled exclusively for the 13th LACMA Art+Film Gala in November 2024. Several celebrities and models wore pieces from this special collection on the night of the event.
The cost of visibility is high and requires continuous investment. But if we want fashion to remain a living, dynamic, and innovative system—one that is inclusive and forward-moving—we must give space to and support the new generation of creatives through an ecosystem of mutual exchange and benefit.
Digital-native designers are proving that a well-timed celebrity endorsement can rival—or even surpass—the exposure offered by a runway debut. In this context, the stylist plays a pivotal role in connecting talent with opportunity and making these moments happen.
