Hemp: the most fashionable plant
Due to the need of finding sustainable solutions to address climate change, the textile field is searching for alternative materials to use in their productions. Lately more and more companies all over the world are reconsidering hemp as a good option.
Hemp is a versatile plant from the cannabis sativa species, used for industrial purposes, sustainable textiles, nutritious seeds, and non-psychoactive compounds like CBD, with potential therapeutic benefits. Hemp is a non-psychoactive variety of the cannabis plant with low THC levels, lower THC levels and no psychoactive effects.
Hemp started his popularity in China around 5000–6000 b.C.; the Cannabis culture was so firmly established in the traditional society to the point that the logogram for hemp (麻 : má), symbolizing two hemp plants hung up in a shed to dry, also refers to the generic category "fibre plant". After being used for millennia across the Chinese Empire, hemp textile was largely substituted by cotton because the Mongol brought it from India and imposed it on the Middle Kingdom. Nonetheless, hemp farming in China survived until today, mainly driven by a local demand for seeds and fibers for traditional funeral garments. Industrial hemp quickly gained popularity among farmers because it offered higher profit margins than many other crops. Now the Chinese hemp industry is picking up, focusing particularly on two main markets: textile and well-being.
Currently, most textiles use cotton as an input material: that has been largely criticized for the amount of pesticides and water used for cultivation , as well as for its negative impact on soil erosion and other problems related to its mass-scale production. Hemp has shown to be a much better alternative. When looking at the national cotton policy it seems as if a transition is already on its way. China’s cotton production has gradually been slowing down (5.9 million tons in 2019 compared to 7.6 million in 2008) and national reserves are shrinking steadily (60 million bales in 2014 to 10.5 million bales in 2019). Recently, China was even overtaken as the world largest producer of cotton by India, yet the production capacity of cotton textile mills remains as large as before. In parallel, Chinese grown cotton is becoming less and less competitive due to land reforms returning farmland to forests and labor wages rising. This creates a cotton demand gap in the textile industry.
Instead of importing more cotton from other countries, the textile industry could introduce hemp as an alternative fiber, either pure or in blends with other fibers (cotton, wool, synthetic, etc.). Science has made substantial advancements in techniques of hemp processing and created a product that is very similar to cotton in terms of processability and feel: Cottonized hemp. That is important because the biggest concern about using hemp were related to the processability, considered too long and with worst results. Furthermore, both profitability and sustainability of this technique have been enhanced throughout the years, with some companies (i.e. Skygreen group) actively investing into cleaner and more efficient cottonization techniques. Compared to other countries, China can rely on large scale manufacturing facilities and produce at a very small unit cost. China still offers the advantage that technology to produce textiles is cheaply available and that workers are well skilled.
In 2018 China allegedly led the global hemp textiles markets with $854 million in sales and was the main exporter of extracts for a total of $964 million. These numbers clearly show the way forward: If Europe wants to participate and harness the full ecological and economic potential of hemp, the establishment of a sustainable hemp value chain in Europe needs to be carried out now and in close and transparent collaboration with public authorities, who should seriously consider proposed changes from the industry. In fact, unlike China, the situation in Europe, although in the last period it reveals a more marked interest in finding solutions that combat climate damage, is still a little behind.
Europe is currently facing a paradox when it comes to industrial hemp production: never has the plant been the subject of so much public debate while at the same time seen its production so limited. As one of the fastest growing plants for fibers , industrial hemp has in fact been a well-known European tradition for centuries. Hemp has provided our forefathers with food, ropes for their boats, paper for their books and textiles for their clothes. Abandoned with the advent of synthetic fibers, hemp is now making a comeback with brand new applications that are likely to change the way we perceive it.
Compared to cotton, hemp fabric keeps a similar texture, but feels somewhat like canvas. It is also not susceptible to shrinkage, and it is highly resistant to pilling. Since fibers from this plantare long and sturdy, hemp fabric is very soft, but it is also highly durable; while a typical cotton T-shirt lasts 10 years at the most, a hemp T-shirt may last double or triple that time. Some estimates suggest that hemp fabric is three times stronger than cotton fabric.
In addition, hemp is a lightweight fabric, which means that it is highly breathable, and it also effectively facilitates the passage of moisture from the skin to the atmosphere, so it is ideal for hot climates. It is easy to dye this type of fabric, and it is highly resistant to mold, mildew, and potentially harmful microbes.Hemp fabric softens with each washing, and its fibers don't degrade even after dozens of washings. Since it's also relatively easy to produce organic hemp fabric sustainably, this textile is practically ideal for clothing.
Furthermore, on the ecological side the production of this fabric is inherently environmentally sustainable as is evidenced by the fact that human beings have produced hemp fabric for thousands of years without incurring any major ecological calamities. However, as hemp fabric continues to be produced on a larger and larger scale, it's unclear whether or not all producers of this fabric follow the same sustainable cultivation and manufacturing processes that are necessary to keep the production of hemp fabric ecologically sound.
In most cases, a landmark 1998 study is referenced as an authority on the subject of hemp fabric's environmental sustainability. Researchers noted that the production of this substance requires less land than cotton, and it also releases less toxic substances into the soil and the wider ecosystem. Hemp is also considered to be a carbon negative raw material, which means that it absorbs more carbon than it produces. Production of this crop requires very few pesticides, and it does not require any herbicides. On the other hand, it's been indicated that producing hemp may require more nitrogen than growing cotton.
The only disadvantage that we can see today is that the price is relatively high due to the impact of raw materials, which is not yet known in the civil market. The real hemp fabric is less expensive as we can see from the chinese market developing it. The most important thing is that hemp could help Europe to become a bioeconomy champion. The traditional use of hemp for paper and especially for fibers is also rekindling the interest of consumers and the textile industry. Levi’s recently announced that they have found a way to make hemp feel like cotton, which opens up brand new opportunities for the short-term development of the sector.
HANP
HANP is a brand in YOUNGOR group, found in 2009，focuses on improving hemp fabrics and producing hemp products. From the cultivation of raw material to the production, HANP has its own complete industrial chain.
HAYJ
HAYJ is a fashion sports brand which takes sustainable fashion as its brand core. Its hemp products not only includ light and breathable sportswear, but also comfortable and warm hoodies.
Opera Campi
Opera Campi is an Italian brand which focuses on the development of hemp fabric, to maximize innovation and sustainability. They developed Herotex, the first stretchy hemp fabric in the world, wool hemp fabric Lanapa and cashmere hemp fabric Cashemp which are very warm, also Butter Hamp, the lightest hemp fabric in the world.
In addition to the brands above that focus on sustainability, in recent years, some luxury brands have also tried to use hemp fiber in their new collections to convey the concept of sustainability from a fashion perspective.
Brunello Cuccineli hemp and linen chevron blazer and Chloé recycled-cotton and hemp-blend denim jaket, skirt
The comprehensive advantages of using hemp in the textile industry:
Sustainability: Hemp is easy to be dyed, it requires minimal water and pesticides to grow and can be cultivated in various climates and soil types.
Fast-growing: Hemp’s quick growth cycle allows for multiple harvests per year, the yield is considerable compared to other natural fibers.
Soil-enriching: Hemp is an excellent rotational crop, it naturally purifies the soil by absorbing toxins and replenishing nutrients,
Durability: Hemp fiber is resistant to wear, it lasts two to three times longer than ordinary cotton products.
Versatility: Hemp can be used to produce a wide range of products aside from fabrics, hemp products have good drape and antistatic properties.
Comfort: Hemp fabric is breathable and becomes softer with each wash, providing comfort and coolness for those who wear it.
Biodegradability: Hemp fabric is biodegradable, also highly resistant to mold and harmful microorganisms.
Hemp has always been known as the "king of natural fibers". Today, the products made from hemp fiber are becoming more popular plant. At the same time, hemp fiber is also playing its own unique role, it contributes to sustainable development and environmental protection while growing itself. Let us break the stereotype of hemp and understand its benefits for society, enterprises and ecology. BETWEEN CONSCIOUS PROGRAM also hopes that industrial hemp can be understood and accepted by more people and become a part of sustainable fashion. As people begin to see the impact of global warming on our lives, hemp may become one of the sustainable resources that will lead the climate revolution.