Bridging science and sustainable luxury: an interview with Roberta Campi

As the luxury fashion industry pivots toward environmental accountability, translating scientific research into high-end garments has never been more critical. In our latest blog post, Between Research Talent Acquisition Manager Angelica De Vito sits down with Senior Textile Advisor Roberta Campi to discuss her fascinating career transition from solid-state physics and semiconductor research to leading major innovation hubs like LVMH’s Silk Lab and Chanel Group’s R&D Textile Lab at Vimar1991.

Roberta shares expert insights on how a cross-disciplinary background in chemistry and physics drives sustainable material innovation, the evolution of R&D within major luxury maisons, and her ground-breaking work on functionalizing silk and implementing biological DNA traceability.

Angelica De Vito: Hi everyone who's watching. I'm Angelica De Vito, Talent Acquisition Manager at Between Research, and I am pleased to introduce Roberta Campi, who has joined us today.

Roberta Campi: Thank you for having me. My name is Roberta Campi, and I am a Senior Advisor specializing in the textile field, sustainability, innovation, and recycling.

Angelica De Vito: Looking at the beginning of your career, what immediately stands out is your exceptional academic background—a Ph.D. in Sweden focused on solid-state physics and semiconductors, followed by research on polymers and collaborations in the automotive and technology sectors. You then transitioned into the textile industry. What motivated this change, and what led you to bring your expertise in physics and chemistry into the fashion system? How does the mindset developed through studying these disciplines apply to understanding the structure of a yarn? More broadly, which skills are essential for carrying out R&D in textiles?

Roberta Campi: I decided to go to Sweden for my Ph.D. because I wanted an international experience and the chance to live outside Italy, and it was a life-changing opportunity. I started working in solid-state physics, which is extremely challenging. My research involved creating micro-devices—products as tiny as a grain of sugar. Developing such products requires immense precision, top-tier quality, and extensive preliminary research. Without that level of rigor, technology like our mobile phones simply wouldn't function, and optical pathways have to be engineered precisely. Through that work, I learned a structured methodology for studying projects, products, and outcomes, which naturally led me to study semiconductor materials in general.

When I returned to Italy, I applied this experience across other sectors. I didn't just focus on research and development; I also worked on quality control, feasibility, and end-of-process analysis to ensure microchips were functioning properly. That allowed me to oversee the entire lifecycle from start to finish.

Later, because I enjoy deep academic research, I pursued a post-doc focusing on polymers. Polymers served as the bridge between semiconductors and textiles. I was working for a polyester company producing technical textiles for the automotive industry. That experience introduced me to textile applications, testing, and industrial process development, while allowing me to continue conducting R&D. Because I am a chemist by training, I developed not only polyester materials but also the chemical formulations used in automotive textiles. Chemistry is remarkably versatile; as a chemist, you can work across many different industries, from wine to semiconductors.

Angelica De Vito: From the perspective of the companies reading us, what has been the primary mission entrusted to you by the fashion brands you have worked with?

Roberta Campi: After working in automotive textiles, I transitioned into fashion, starting with an innovation project focused on silk. It was a major challenge because there was no pre-existing roadmap on how to improve silk, which is already an exceptionally rich and traditional material. Because it had never been subjected to formal R&D, my mission was to develop functional properties—such as easy-care, low-iron, and washable qualities—alongside reliable supply chain traceability, which is vital for luxury brands.

Later, I joined Chanel to help build a new laboratory dedicated to transforming the textile sector toward greater sustainability. We once again utilized polymers as a starting point, aiming to replace conventional materials in Chanel's textile lines with natural fibers or lower-impact synthetic alternatives that require fewer chemicals during processing. That core objective is likely why they brought me on board.

Angelica De Vito: Which internal departments or company functions do you interact with most frequently in your role?

Roberta Campi: Across my main fashion roles, collaboration was multifaceted. At LVMH, I worked closely with the strategic group, project coordinators within the Louis Vuitton family to define goals and final products, and organizational heads.

On a day-to-day basis, I also worked extensively with external suppliers. During my first fashion project, we did not have an internal laboratory or dedicated infrastructure, so we relied on our brand partners' trusted suppliers to develop projects. Maintaining strict confidentiality is essential for luxury brands, making these trusted supplier relationships crucial.

Angelica De Vito: On the other hand, which external stakeholders and collaborations are most important in enabling you to perform your work effectively?

Roberta Campi: Suppliers are indispensable because they possess the deepest expertise in existing technologies and materials. At the same time, staying continuously updated on fast-moving R&D trends is vital. I frequently attended textile and technology trade fairs—sometimes looking outside the traditional textile sector to adapt cross-industry technologies. Collaborating with universities and research centers was also essential for accessing specialized instruments and engaging with peers who share the correct technical background.

Angelica De Vito: Throughout your career, you have progressed from leading the Silk Lab within LVMH’s silk division to becoming R&D Textile Lab Director for Chanel Group at Vimar1991. You have experienced firsthand the transformation of R&D laboratories within major luxury groups—shifting from basic quality control to becoming genuine drivers of strategy and sustainability. How has the perception of your role within luxury maisons changed over the past ten years?

Roberta Campi: Major luxury brands have reached a point where their established fame means they no longer rely solely on logos or marketing. From an environmental standpoint, they recognize the urgent need for change. Driven by stricter regulations—especially given that the textile industry is among the most polluting sectors—these brands are establishing new sustainability initiatives. My role is to help them navigate this transition, identify the best paths forward, and manage a vast amount of underlying work.

Angelica De Vito: At the beginning of 2026, you decided to leverage more than twenty years of experience by becoming an independent consultant for brands and manufacturers. What are the main challenges and needs that brands bring to you today as a consultant? Could you provide a practical example of a consulting project, such as validating the credibility of a circular economy strategy?

Roberta Campi: After spending many years leading fashion R&D, I saw an opportunity to consult for brands looking to take meaningful steps for the planet. Many brands are not yet fully equipped to manage comprehensive R&D and sustainability overhauls on their own. Instead, they benefit from partnering with an expert consultant to execute high-impact, targeted R&D projects.

My work heavily involves recycling. During my time at the Silk Lab and Chanel, I extensively studied post-consumer waste, such as silk foulards or cashmere pullovers, analyzing the recovered fibers to create high-quality upcycled products rather than simply reproducing the same items. The goal is always to generate new value from existing materials while maintaining the uncompromising quality luxury brands demand.

Angelica De Vito: Another practical example from your past experience that fascinates product professionals involves your work at LVMH’s Silk Lab, where you enhanced and tested silk to overcome its intrinsic limitations—such as developing easy-care or low-iron properties. Could you tell us more about this project and the innovation process behind it?

Roberta Campi: While everyone views silk as luxurious, industry professionals are well aware of its practical drawbacks, such as the need for continuous ironing and difficult laundering. My project aimed to identify natural treatments that could impart a protective surface finish to the silk, reducing the need for constant ironing.

I also worked on washable silk initiatives, utilizing silk waste derivatives to create protective finishes that shield the fabric from dust and simplify cleaning. Additionally, I explored low-impact application methods, such as utilizing specialized machinery to deposit metallic finishes onto silk with minimal environmental impact, replacing conventional, highly chemical processes.

Angelica De Vito: Another cornerstone of your work on silk concerns full traceability: ensuring that a fabric originates from a specific silkworm, raised in a designated region, without contamination throughout the supply chain. How can chemistry “read” the history of a silk thread to certify its authenticity and purity?

Roberta Campi: Traceability was our most significant project at the Silk Lab. After evaluating various chemical approaches, we partnered with a Swiss startup—which has since grown into an established company—that specialized in biological traceability using unique, custom-synthesized DNA markers.

The challenge, which spanned two to three years, was applying this DNA to the fibers and ensuring it survived every subsequent step of the textile manufacturing process, including spinning, dyeing, and printing. Because chemical treatments across these production stages can easily degrade micro-materials on the fiber, we had to study each step meticulously. We analyzed how much DNA remained after every process and calculated the precise concentration needed at the outset. It was a complex undertaking requiring specialized biological testing rather than standard chemical analysis, but it ultimately delivered a robust solution for supply chain verification.

BETWEEN RESEARCH is an international agency based in Milan and Shanghai, with over 25 years of experience in headhunting and consultancy. Through its BETWEEN CONSCIOUS PROGRAM, with expert interviews, and in-depth analyses it promotes sustainability and positive change in fashion. We hope these contents will inspire you as they inspired us.